WARPAINT*

"I love the smell of lipstick in the morning..."

Posts tagged fashion week

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Makeup Artists Hall of Fame… Charlotte Tilbury

I know I keep promising to write more product related posts, but one of the reasons I started Warpaint in the first place, was because I felt there just weren’t really any makeup blogs out there that I’d actually like to read.  The product heavy posts just don’t get me going as a reader.  Sorry product junkies, sorry sorry sorry.

For me, one of my favourite parts of this job is the research, yes I am a bad, bad nerd, and things like that get me very excited.  When the concept for a shoot comes my way, or when a client describes to me the sort of look they have in mind, I become the absolute undisputed Queen of Google.  The amount of files overflowing images that I’ve amassed over the years is ree-diculous.  I can pour over photography and fashion books, or become inspired by a texture, or perhaps a lip colour I see during a runway show, mixed with an eyeliner shape I’ve spotted on a 1950s movie star.  I’ve spent hours over the past couple of days amassing heaps of images of various stages of decay and buildings overgrown with flowers as inspiration for an upcoming shoot.  Research is your frieeeeend.  It inspires me, and that’s why I hope these more image heavy posts may get your creative juices flowing too.  (I have received some insanely hot products recently though, I promise my next post will be an ode to my pick of the best!)

It’s easy when writing these Makeup Artist related posts, to pick the more avant garde, more “out there” bodies of work, by an Alex Box or a Pat McGrath for instance.  But personally, my style, as an artist and as an appreciator of others’ art, is more eclectic.  I get just as much pleasure from creating a beautifully glowing nude skin, and fluttery set of lashes, as I do from a full on high fashion creation.  Whenever makeup students or new artists ask me for advice, I always try to impress on them the importance of appreciating the full spectrum of makeup, step away from those feather eyelashes young one!  Come and take a look at the elegant creations of Miss Charlotte Tilbury.

Whenever I think of the more classic beauty looks, there are a few names that spring to mind, but probably first a foremost for me it’s the legendary Ms Tilbury who takes the biscuit.  Not all makeup artists embody the glamour that people expect of us (myself often included!) but Charlotte is as recogniseable in the industry for her gorgeous boho chic and flowing firey red hair as she is for her enviable body of work.  A regular collaborator with Burberry, Chloe, Mango and Donna Karan amongst others (and unofficially known as Kate Moss’s favourite makeup artist - Kate has Charlotte to thank for beautifying her on her wedding day.  Not jealous at all Kate), she is known for that, polished, aspirational, feminine type of beauty. At the same time, her full-on 80s vamp look for Daphne Groenveld on the cover of Vogue Paris in December 2010 was equally iconic, as was her Cleopatra inspired block pastel eye for Alexander McQueen back in 2007.  Whether more dramatic, or more stripped back, the words that always spring to mind are feminine and luxurious.  Charlotte’s creations seem to come unashamedly from the mind of a girly girl, and as a bit of a tomboy myself, there are elements of that I definately aspire to!

Behind the scenes Charlotte has also been responsible for creating MyFace Cosmetics, currently exclusive to Boots in the UK (MyFace also has the backing of fellow makeup artist and personal fave Kabuki, talk about a dream team!).  I’ll put my hands up and say it’s probably the highest quality, drugstore-price range of makeup you can buy.  I’ve been given the range to use backstage at London Fashion Week and was seriously impressed, it’s presence backstage in itself is a testament to Charlotte’s reputation, you won’t find every high street makeup brand being used at the shows.  Their MyMix foundations, amongst other things, are wonderful, I often advocate foundation as being one of the parts of your personal makeup bag where it’s worth splashing the cash for a great finish, but if you want to be more thrifty, then get ye to MyFace quick sharp.  Charlotte also designed a full range of eye, lip and cheek shades clearly labelled as to whether they complement fair, medium or dark skintones.  Pretty much a foolproof method for the woman on the street, to rid makeup drawers nationwide of stacks of pretty shades you’ll never use.  Gawd bless you Miss Tilbury.

Enough of my gushing, feast your eyes on the beautiful creations of the lady herself, polished perfection never looked so pretty.

…x

Filed under makeup makeup artist warpaint Lucy Gibson Charlotte tilbury kabuki vogue vogue paris daphne groenveld boots lfw london fashion week fashion week myface myface cosmetics cleopatra backstage alexander mcqueen kate moss burberry chloe mango gisele love magazine lindsay wixson rosie huntington whiteley jourdan dun id id magazine j-lo

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Secret Treasures from the kit… Part Two

There are certain pieces of kit, as a makeup artist, that are real essentials.  Things that aren’t always easy to get hold of, but that I buy in bulk, so as to never run out.  Things that makeup artists pass on to each other, word-of-mouth little legends that I could not imagine doing a job without, and honestly a lot of makeup artists reading may need to skip this post, they’ll already be in the know.  But for those who aren’t just yet, read on, your skin will be in rapture!

Have you ever worn a long lasting eyeliner, or lip colour, or perhaps a waterproof mascara, and in the process of trying to take it off, rubbed your poor little face red raw?  Or maybe purchased a stronger makeup remover for this exact reason, only to have it sting your eyes to the point of near blindness?  Spare a thought for the poor young models each time fashion week comes round, being made up, often with highly dramatic looks, then stripped back down often three or four times a day, for weeks on end.  Poor, beautiful, young, globe-trotting models, their skin is not a happy bunny.

As a result, you will not be able to move in the makeup area backstage at any show for bottles of these two lifesavers, Bioderma Crealine H2O Micelle Solution (snappy name), and Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre; Bioderma and Embryolisse to their mates.  Please be introduced, you lot will get along famously.

Bioderma, is quite literally as gentle as water (the H20 in it’s name being somewhat of a clue, this is what Micellar Solutions are; molecular agents suspended in water - science yawn).  But cleansing wise it packs a serious punch.  I’m not a chemistry person, and I don’t really take much interest in the chemical breakdown of the products I use.  So sue me.  I’m more interested in how they work, tangibly and physically, on clients, on myself, and on the job.  This will remove the most stubborn gel liners and waterproof products, on the most sensitive ravaged skin, without so much as a tingle.  And this is coming from a  girl with insanely sensitive skin, I can’t even use Simple’s notoriously gentle face wipes because they burn the skin around my eyes, it’s ridiculous.  

Bioderma, like Embryollise, used to be a Parisian pharmacy buy.  Don’t get me started on the wonders of a French Pharmacy, the superior quality, miracle lotions and potions they stock, at bargain prices, are like makeup artist crack.  Not that I’m into crack but you get the analogy, rarely can a vague acquaintance announce a trip to France without me thrusting cash at them demanding they pick me up things from pharmacies.  Often I head to the internet to get my fix, so don’t fret if you don’t have a sexy French trip planned anytime soon.  But now us lucky Londoners (hopefully word will spread soon, they need this stuff on every high street for crying out loud!), can pick up a bottle from the clever folk at Guru Makeup Emporium in Fulham (you can buy online here for £15.50, don’t you worry).  Never ones to miss a trick they’re also now stocking the next cult product…

Embryolise!  This is the moisturiser to end all moisturisers.  So gentle it can even be used on tiny babbas, they don’t call this the “24 hour miracle cream” for nothing.  This is one of the only moisturisers I’ve found that manages to feel rich, and luxurious, whilst sinking in almost immediately and priming the skin perfectly to a plumped up satin feeling finish.  It also soothes any redness in the skin and can even be used to cleanse.  A great travel product or what?  Embryollise do a whole range of beautiful skincare that’s well worth a look into, those outside of London may be cursing me for constantly mentioning London stockists, but should I hear of any others you’ll be the first to know!  The internet is definately your friend though as this can easily be picked up online for around £10 , or if you happen to pay a visit to central London at any point, the ScreenFace shop in Covent Garden stocks a full range of their ,products as well as a treasure trove of other makeup artist goodies.  Just don’t blame me if you leave having to remortgage your house after buying half the shop, you wouldn’t be the first.

Now look at you with your healthy, glowing, nourished skin.  Simple when you know how isn’t it? *winks like Lindsey*

…x

Filed under makeup makeup artist Lucy Gibson warpaint skin skincare cleanser makeup remover bioderma water embryolise paris pharmacy france french lindsey wixson backstage fashion week models guru screenface covent garden guru makeup emporium london

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Bronzing beauties I never knew existed!

The other day I was presented with a big, sexy package of products from the lovely peeps at St Tropez, and I must admit (while it seems screamingly obvious to me now) before I got chance to play wth these babies, I’d never thought of St Tropez as something that could be a valuable part of my kit.  Ohhh what a fool I’ve been!

I’m not talking the self-tanning side of things (it’s not called “fake-tan” anymore guys, FYI, apparantly that label is so 2005), I’m talking about cosmetics and body makeup, a whole range by St Tropez of products I never even knew they’d created.  And I adore every single one of them, I think these are going to become kit staples for sure.  I’m going to try and keep this brief, as those of you who’ve been keeping up with my posts may have realised by now I do tend to go off on one once I’m on a roll, and there are quite a few products here that I could rant about so I’m just going to pick four and nip it in the bud.

GO!

First up the Wash Off "Instant Glow Mousse".  The operative two words there being “wash off”.  If you want a natural tan to the skin, and don’t want to be liable for a botched job of permanent self tan on your model, client or yourself for that matter, this is a Godsend.  I’ve always been a MAC Face and Body girl when it came to bronzing up limbs, but the differences here are many.  This product is none transferable, until it comes into contact with soap and water that is, so no worries about incurring the wrath of the stylist with this one.  It is totally matte, and dries immediately, so is not only super comfortable to wear, but is buildable, which also makes it suitable for all skin tones.  A seriously wicked kit staple I’d say.  Just be sure to get a £3.75 Applicator Mitt to apply it with, unless you want some seriously weird tan lines going on.  On your palms.

Number two, "Instant Glow Face Lotion", £10.21.  Again a wash off product, this one is going straight in my grooming kit, it’s perfect for guys.  Liquid, or gel bronzers have been around for a while now but personally I’ve not had much joy with the ones I’ve tried, before now.  Usually it’s been the done thing, if giving a depth of colour to the skin on the face, to do it with foundation.  Besides powder bronzer there wasn’t much of an option.  The major downsides being the textures each product would give to the skin, may not be the texture you want.  I’m a fan of the insanely natural, barely there base, as a rule, if a guy, or girl for that matter, has good skin but needs a bit of colour, this will be all I’m using.  Worked into the high points of the face over beautifully prepped skin with the fingers, bit of translucent powder, done.

Next up, St Tropez’s (cumbersome “apostrophe s” or what) "Powder Bronzer".  To some folk, a bronzer’s a bronzer’s a bronzer, but this is not the case people! If you love a glittery bronzer, or a pearly bronzer, then by all means shine on you crazy diamond.  But I regularly bemoan the fact that it’s pretty hard to find good bronzers that don’t come with that shimmer that you may not necessarily want.  But here we have a yummy matte bronzer.  In the packaging, I won’t lie, it looks dark, but this is simply because it’s high in pigment, so you need very little.  Plus it’s texture is not too loose, so you don’t end up with the dreaded, sneaky bronzer filled brush that has Tango’d many an innocent face in the past.  Using such a small amount allows once again that really natural bronzing effect, and the texture of the skin itself is able to show through.  This badboy can also be used on the body, is incredibly good for contouring with (it’s wonderful to build up layers with, getting real depth into the socket of the cheekbone), and there is not one hint of orange.  Sold.

And finally the St Tropez "Skin Illuminator", at only £12.26 these are from what is known as BARGAIN CITY.  Here, I really have saved the best for last.  I began to do that “rub, sniff, mmmm” kind of thing that makeup artists do when confronted with a great new skin product when I was introuduced to these.  I wasn’t expecting them at all, and I love them all the more for it!  St Tropez has been quietly building up a strong presence backstage at Fashion Week shows for a couple of years now, and this product has probably been it’s most popular of all.  An illuminating body lotion, with a gorgeous holiday scent that comes in Rose, Violet or Gold, each shot through with it’s own self explanatory pink, violet or gold reflective pigment.  This stuff is heavenly, I used it on album promo shots for a new artist this last week, on legs, decolettage, cheekbones, the lot, and we all agreed the skin looked incredible, airbrushed in fact.  I’m smitten with the three varying options of the subtle coloured sheens in these lotions, a really nice touch.

And there you have it, look at St Tropez go!   Leaving any outdate  Essex Girl connotations in the dust, the brand has emerged with a range of great quality, really usable, desirable products both for professionals and the girl in the street.  Welcome to the kit St Tropez!

…x

Filed under makeup makeup artist lucy gibson warpaint fashion week st tropez fake tan self tan tanning bronzed bronze bronzer cosmetics face and body mac mac cosmetics backstage st tropez gold rose violet body lotion essex girl